Cartier’s New Releases – Watches & Wonders 2021

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DATE

09 April 2021

Cartier 2021: Pasha de Cartier Chronograph

Last year, 2020 marked the very successful and much welcomed resurgence of the Pasha. This year, Cartier has written a new chapter in the infamous model’s modern history.

Yep, the new, modern-day Pasha de Cartier is getting a chronograph, a configuration which makes the timepiece scream 1980s retro chunky attire. I think this was a great move by Cartier, although you will need to really “know” how to wear it. Why? The 41mm case with very large lugs and big, sapphire-capped chronograph pushers is a tough look to pull off. The only thing they could have done better, in my opinion, is take the date window out.

All in all, I’m super pleased with the new Pasha: I absolutely love this prodigal piece, and can’t wait to see it in stores.

Cartier 2021: Pasha de Cartier 30mm

Also here, very, very few complaints. Was a 30mm version entirely necessary? No, but, is it welcome? Yes, absolutely! It’s a good option for those who really like the Pasha but have slimmer wrists. I myself can’t wait to try it on my wrist – I think it’ll be quite a surprising experience…. I don’t think this is just the “ladies’ Pasha”….

Cartier 2021: Pasha de Cartier Squelette (Pantera)

Call it gaudy, call it garish, call it ugly, call it whatever you like: just don’t do it in front of me.
I already love the Pasha chronograph, but this… this is where Cartier really flexes its muscles. This is where modern artistic watchmaking expertise meets Cartier’s opulent character and feline DNA.

However, like the Pasha chronograph, my only hesitation is on the dimensions.
If it were a 35mm case, I would have immediately thought: “high heels, leather pants, white shirt and red lipstick. A bit stereotypical, but sex appeal to the max.
But in a 41mm case, I can’t really picture it wearing well on a (normally) smaller feminine wrist. Even for men, the Pasha’s case can be a little much. Having said this, I’m sure that with the right intention, outfit, and confidence, this can be worn very well.

One thing’s for sure: if you see an enthusiast who has one of these in their collection, they know exactly what they’re doing, and they know watches.

Cartier 2021: Pasha de Cartier “Vibrating Diamonds”

A few years ago, we saw this feature on the Ballon Bleu, and now, just like back then, I’m left speechless. The effect that this expertly crafted vibrating diamond-setting is second to none. I am very pleased to see a lot of these successful aspects on the Pasha here at Watches & Wonders 2021.
That’s not all for Cartier when it comes to diamonds… but you’ll have to read on!

Cartier 2021: Cloche de Cartier

If there’s one release by Cartier from Watches & Wonders 2021 which needs its own article, it’s this one.
But, for now, all I can say is: as much as I love the Cloche, I am not at all a fan of these iterations, if not for the yellow gold one.

Okay, perhaps I am being a little harsh. Let me rephrase and explain.

As you may or may not know, finding an original (vintage) Cloche de Cartier is nigh on imposssible these days. So, I can appreciate the fact that Cartier has re-launched this model so that more people can own and enjoy one. However, I am not a fan of how they’ve done it, aesthetically speaking. I just think that they’ve tried too hard to be “creative”.

Cartier 2021: Cloche de Cartier Squelette

Incredible but true: this year, I far (far, far) prefer this version over the classic one.

Personally, I think this skeletonised iteration of the Cloche has been done extraordinarily tastefully, and cannot wait to see it on my own wrist.

Each metal variant (rose gold and platinum) will be a limited edition of 50 pieces. Additionally, the platinum version with diamonds will be limited even further to 20 pieces worldwide. I’m calling it right now: in 50 years, we will be seeing one of these masterpieces at a Phillips auction.

Cartier 2021: Cartier Libre Baignoire Tortue & Tortue Serpente

The Cartier Libre was first created to answer the question: “what if we took Cartier’s most iconic timepieces, and gave them a completely out-of-the-ordinary look”? And that is exactly what they’ve done here, and very successfully, might I add.

This year, the two models which got the Libre treatment are the Baignoire and the Tortue. These two classic timepieces have been overwhelmed with vibrant colours and have been adorned with spectacular jewellery – giving them a completely new character.

If there’s one thing that COVID has brought to the watch world (apart from digital fairs), it’s a change in how the market view colours. Before, it was all about blue. Now it appears that everyone is rushing to make their timepieces as colourful as possible. Cartier, however, seemingly effortlessly, has made itself stand out from the crowd, taking the crown for best colourful watches at W&W 21 so far.
Only 30 pieces of each model will be made.

I am only left with two questions. The first: Tortoise or Serpent? And second: who is more skilful when it comes to pairing haute jewellery with horology in these contexts? Cartier or Bulgari?

Cartier 2021: The New Santos

Let’s quickly wrap this up…. the Santos line got three new additions: a diamonded Santos Medium (which could have been done better), and two new box sets for the Santos Dumont.

Right, let’s set the diamonded Santos aside, because there’s really not all too much to talk about.
The Santos Dumont, instead, is much more interesting: two new intriguing dials have been introduced, as well as some expertly crafted box sets.

If you cast your minds back to last year, you may remember that the limited edition Santos Dumont was a huge hit. So, this year, Cartier’s tactic was to build around that success. This year, they have included a stunning, highly desireable wooden box, and threw in a matching pair of Cartier Santos cufflinks. Each colourway (below, blue) will be a limited edition of 100 pieces.

Honestly, I really hope that this box set format will become a trend for the brand, because I love it!

Cartier 2021: New Tank Musts & Louis Cartier

Okay, I lied: this release needs its own dedicated article, too.

Currently, I’m experiencing writer’s block, because I have loads to talk about when it comes to these timepieces. In fact, as I write this article, I’m already writing a separate one for the Tanks!

For those who are unfamiliar with the Tank Must, it was introduced in the 1970s as a “more accessible” version of the Tank Louis Cartier. This year’s iterations feature a redesigned case – more faithful to the original versions – three sizes (XL, L, and S), two versions with diamonds (big and small), 3 all new colourways and…. solar powered movements???

Yes, somehow, Cartier have integrated photovoltaic cells, embedding them seamlessly into the Roman numerals. This means that these movements are not available on the lacquered dials.

Speaking of lacquered dials, look at those colours! Personally, I could not have asked for more… okay, perhaps I could have: even more colours, slightly more budget-concious price tag, but above all, a colour-matching crown cabochon! That would have made it the perfect release, but nonetheless is a huge breath of fresh air to the catalogue.

Thankfully, the new Tank Musts will allow a younger generation of watch enthusiasts (and/or those on a budget) to proudly wear Cartiers for 2021 and 2022. In my opinion, this is a huge gift to horology.

Finally, we have the Tank Louis Cartier. The name of the game for these releases is variety. The dials… well, they speak for themselves, really, just have a look at them!
My only criticism, although very minor and nitpicky: I’m surprised that the crown cabochons don’t match the colour of the dial.

These were my two cents on this year’s releases from Cartier. I think we’ve covered just about everything. What are your thoughts? Which is your favourite release? As always, let us know in the comments below!

-Translated by Patrick R.