Although François-Paul Journe’s brand has not participated in the Watches and Wonders fair for years now, the occasion proved perfect for it to independently present some of its new products for the year.
In this 2025, the brand is celebrating an important milestone: 25 years of the Chronomètre Souverain collection. However, in this article the focus is on a new model in the Collection lineSport, which combines a novel design with materials rarely used in watchmaking: the Chronomètre Furtif.
Well friends of IWS, it only remains for me to take you on a discovery of this new watch from the genius of one of the greatest watchmakers of our time.
Features of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
Last year, at the Only Watch auction, F.P. Journe presented a fantastic one-of-a-kind piece: the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif, with a tantalum case and bracelet and a stunning blue dial, which has now become iconic thanks to the famous Chronomètre Bleu.
The watch naturally attracted a great deal of attention, reaching the impressive figure of CHF 2,000,000 at auction.
At the most important fair of the year in terms of the launch of new models, Watches and Wonders, the maison decided to focus on the reinterpretation of the unique piece made for the auction, presenting the new Chronomètre Furtif.
In this case, the case (42 mm in diameter by 9.5 mm thick) and bracelet, are made of tungsten carbide, alternating with some tantalum elements. The main characteristic of this material is its high hardness: it has twice the density of steel, comparable to that of gold, making it perfect for highly technical applications.
In addition to being biocompatible and chemically inert, it is extremely resistant to impact and virtually unalterable over time.
Precisely because of these properties-just as was the case years ago with the introduction of tantalum-the design and workmanship of this watch turned out to be extremely complex. This is why F.P. Journe’s choice to adopt tungsten carbide is yet another demonstration of his incredible dedication to innovation.
The uniqueness of the dial of the new F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
What makes this watch truly extraordinary is not only the meticulous work on the case and bracelet, but also the spectacular dial, made of anthracite gray Grand Feu enamel, polished to a mirror finish on a white gold base.
The result of this combination, combined with the incredible workmanship process, is a dial with a deep and fascinating black. Hour markers and minute track are engraved in an extremely unobtrusive manner so as not to distract from the refinement of the details. The result? Only the owner of the watch can read the time, playing with the slant of the light.
The hands, shaped like an elongated teardrop, pick up a similar hue as the dial to emphasize the philosophy of discretion and visual harmony, while the central seconds hand, colored white, creates an elegant visual contrast.
The caliber of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
The caliber chosen for the watch is the 1522, an aesthetically stunning movement crafted in 18-carat rose gold with impeccable finishing in every detail. This hand-wound, entirely in-house movement indicates hours, minutes and seconds via a central seconds hand, mounted on the axis of the dedicated wheel.
Looking closely at the caliber, one notices at 12 o’clock the power reserve indicator-equal to 56 hours-fed by two barrels mounted in parallel, while at 6 o’clock is the moon phase indicator.
Conclusion
I must admit to being biased when it comes to François-Paul Journe and his creations. What I find truly extraordinary is the approach and philosophy that inspire them: the result, in most cases, is as amazing as is the genius of the watchmaker behind this incredible maison.
This Chronomètre Furtif is no exception. The use of materials unheard of in the watchmaking world and the meticulous work behind the stunning dial are concrete proof of whyindependent watchmaking is experiencing such overwhelming success.
As difficult as it may be, given the extremely limited production and selective distribution, I recommend that you try an F.P. Journe creation on your wrist-you will instantly fall in love.
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