La Montre Objet d’Art – the watch as a form of art. For the past few weeks, the social world has witnessed what could be the revival of Daniel Roth, one of the most interesting and ingenious independent watchmakers of the past, with a tumultuous history that could now see the light again.
The story of Daniel Roth, from Breguet to his own brand
Daniel Roth was born in France in 1945, specifically in Nice. For him, watchmaking has an important family connection, with his grandparents and great-grandparents as watchmakers coming from Neuchâtel. After a few experiences with his family, he realized that this was indeed his path and wasted no time in catapulting himself to Switzerland, where he would make his way in some of the most important brands, such as Jaegere-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and finally Breguet. The latter experience would later be decisive for his career as an independent watchmaker, but we will get to that in a moment.
In the 1970s, the Breguet brand was under the ownership of Chaumet, two jeweler brothers who owned the eponymous brand and had bought the watchmaking house at a time when quartz was bringing the entire industry to its knees. Roth applied to be a master watchmaker, surely fascinated by the legacy left by the greatest watchmaking genius of the past. So in 1975 he took over the creative direction of Breguet and helped the brand establish itself in Le Brassus, in the Jura Valley.
Although few people know about them, Daniel Roth and François Bodet were the absolute protagonists of the revival, the ones who gave all the recognizable features to Breguet’s modern wristwatches: coin case, hands à pomme évidée, guilloché dial. The creations of these years were based on Lemania calibers (which later animated chronographs such as Patek’s 5070) or Frederic Piguet.
Despite the works of art created during those years, the Maison failed and was acquired by another company, leaving Roth with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: to establish his own brand.
The opening of his atelier in Le Sentier
Daniel Roth opened his atelier in Le Sentier, also in the valley of watchmaking, to go on to create watches with new forms, but which paid homage in every sense to the genius of Breguet. What distinguished his watches was the shape of the double-ellipse case with straight lugs, the guilloché dial, the blued hands, and the numbering inspired by the master, all surrounded by exceptional handmade finishes.
The most iconic model? Definitely the Tourbillon, with its aperture at 6 o’clock and 3 arms indicating continuous seconds on three different levels. But nothing to take away from chronographs like the C147, again based on Lemania caliber, with a truly incredible dial. Then came the time of the C107, based this time on Frederic Piguet caliber and approaching for the first time the idea of the “solotempo” with automatic winding.
The latest reference considered to be part of the independent watchmaker’s creations is the so-called C317 “Papillon,” so renamed because of the special layout of the dial with the jumping hours complication. These are just some of the versions that have become famous among collectors and belong to the first series made by Daniel Roth.
The Hour Glass acquisition and subsequent bankruptcy
After the sale of the brand between 1994 and 1995, a rather sad chapter begins, in which retailer The Hour Glass changes strategy, trying to make the watches more affordable, totally devaluing the brand’s heritage. The use of steel, low-grade finishes, printed dials, and a sportier style are the perfect ingredients for the brand’s future decline.
Prior to the acquisition, the brand was definitely not having a good time and bankruptcy was upon us, but THG’s entry did not (unfortunately) change its fortunes for the better.
Bulgari’s new entrance
In the 2000s, after the failure of the Daniel Roth brand under THG, Bulgari stepped in, forcing the sale of all shares, both those belonging to The Hour Glass and those of the watchmaker. In the same years, Bulgari also bought the Gerald Genta brand, which would allow it to use certain calibres in watches under the Daniel Roth name.
Bulgari has tried to give a new light to these watches but with a mix of DNA, some watches in fact carry characteristics close to the origins, while others have a completely different character. In 2011, Bulgari was acquired by LVMH, which today will hopefully give collectors a breath of fresh air and loyalty to the early days of Daniel Roth
The relaunch of Daniel Roth under the LVMH Group and La Fabrique Du Temps
From the Instagram channel of Jean Arnault, current Director of Marketing for Louis Vuitton Watchmaking, we scouted the new profile of the Daniel Roth brand, which will come to life under the wing of the LVMH group.
According to some reports we have heard, Daniel Roth’s return in 2023 will be as close as possible to the master’s works, thus to all the early series made by Roth himself. Directing the watchmaking side of the project will be Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, two renowned watchmakers who previously founded the company La Fabrique Du Temps and specialize in complications. Louis Vuitton
As for the involvement of Daniel Roth himself, there is currently no definite news but we know of exchanges of ideas and opinions between members of the group and the watchmaker. The key focus will be on finding the essence of the double ellipse shapes and complications originally introduced. The relaunch will take place in the coming weeks, thus before the end of March.
The new logo has a detail for a few–can you dig it out?
What do we think?
The LVMH group is showing increasing interest in watchmaking and the creations of independent watchmakers, just think of BULGARI x MB&F, Zenith x Kari Voutilainen, and Louis Vuitton’s new project for independent creations. The return of Daniel Roth will be a major challenge, not so much at the operational level but at the watchmaking level. Collectors and fans of the watchmaker have been particularly disappointed by previous attempts at revival, particularly that of The Hour Glass.
Talking with various friends, we have noticed high expectations toward the revival of Daniel Roth, so we can only wait to see what the final result will be.
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