De Bethune is known to all fans for its unique approach that blends the art of traditional watchmaking with the most modern innovation. To learn more about this aspect, we invite you to also read our article.
It is a philosophy that has so far proved extremely successful and this watch, presented last year, is certainly not an exception. In fact, although it is the younger brother of the more complicated DB25 World Traveler, introduced in 2016, it certainly does not lack personality, both aesthetic and mechanical.
The Starry Varius family
As the name suggests, the central theme of this collection is the star-studded night sky that stands out on the dials of these magnificent timepieces. Even though the collection to which they also belong, the DB25, is the most classic of De Bethune, they maintain the most modern characteristics that make the maison recognizable.
The three models currently in production are respectively a time only, a tourbillon with jumping seconds and the GMT (the one that gives the title to this article). In addition to the philosophy of the dial, this timepieces also share the dimensions of the case(42mm), the shape of the case and many of the numerous patents of the Geneva-based company.
The dial of the DB25 GMT Starry Varius
Despite the distinctive case and the now recognizable hollowed lugs that stand out in the De Bethune DB25, with the typical lines that have always distinguished the brand, once again the dial is stealing the show.
The starry sky has always had a profound meaning for the human being, just think of how many times it has been the subject of the paintings of a crazy artistic genius like Vincent Van Gogh. Faced with such a deep blue and the twinkling of the furthest stars, a man can’t help to wonder.
However, for once the starry sky is just the co-protagonist of an amazing stepped dial which, while providing a lot of information, is not crowded and remains tidy thanks to the multiple levels.
Starting out from the outside and moving inward, we first find a ring with a silver surface on which the Arabic numbers of the hours are placed, hollowed inside there is the indication of the second time zone with the hours of different color: golden for the day and blue for the night. The day / night indicator is represented by a rotating microsphere composed of one half in blued steel and one in pink gold. This features was patented in 2004.
Going towards the center instead, you return to the level of the first ring. Here we find the dates, marked by ha central hand. The date ring is the one that surround the amazing sky made of blued titanium, on which white gold pins are applied to represent the iridescent stars, while the Milky Way is made from an applied gold leaf.
The upper part of the central element, on the other hand, recalls the earth seen from space, with a radiant silver processing that originates from a rose gold insert. The concavities of these rays give spectacular plays of light that vary according to the inclination and external conditions.
The whole is completed by the blued steel hands, leaf-shaped for the hour and minute hands, while arrow-shaped with silver tip for the date.
Movement and technical characteristics
As incredible as the dial, the caseback of the Starry Varius has a unique charm. The extreme attention to symmetry and attention to the smallest details make the beating heart of this timepiece a true marvel, not only engineering, but also, and above all, artistic.
With a diameter of 30 mm and 368 components, the scene is dominated by the mirror-polished steel plate, decorated in the center with the characteristic “CÔTES DE BETHUNE”, from which the double barrel emerges and guarantees the power reserve of five days at 28’800 vph.
To complete the caseback design we have the balance wheel bridge, also manually mirror-polished, the escape wheel in silicon and the patents of 2006 and 2016: respectively, balance spring with flat terminal and balance wheel in blued titanium with white gold inserts.
These are just some of the innovations that have received the patent, but the list of improvements is still long. The two barrels since their introduction in 2004 are regulated autonomously while since 2005 there is a triple parachute shock system, also made blue by heat.
Our opinion
This timepiece is certainly not the typical GMT, and I would say fortunately, the indication of the second time zone is reinvented and especially that of the day and night. With relatively small dimensions due to the complications offered, especially as regards the 11.8 mm thickness, a wearable work of art is offered.
The combination of classic watchmaking and innovation, of which De Bethune often elects himself as champion, is particularly successful in this timepiece, where the traditional character dial is in perfect balance with the extremely futuristic movement. The typical titanium case is undoubtedly not usual, but it unites the aspects of both worlds resulting in a harmonious fusion of styles.
Ref. DB25VGT1S3, prezzo CHF 95.000,00.
To find out more, visit the official De Bethune website.
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