Among the new products presented at this year’s Watches and Wonders 2024 days, one of the ones that impressed me the most was the brand new Masterlink by Gerald Charles.
In fact, the maison, founded by master Gerald Charles Genta, has pulled off an incredible feat from a design point of view by incorporating a brand new integrated bracelet inside the master case. To mark the occasion, we visited Gerald Charles’ new Atelier in Geneva the day before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024 to have this new timepiece explained to us.
Gerald Charles’ new Atelier is located on the top floor of a period building, and the result is incredibly successful. Here, from now on, the maison will host its clients in a convivial atmosphere enriched by a bar corner and a room used as a museum that tells the story and the most important watches produced by the maison.
Adesso però veniamo a noi, ecco il nuovo Gerald Charles Masterlink.
Gerald Charles Masterlink
Gerald Charles’ designer Octavio Garcia had already amazed us by devising an aesthetically impeccable skeleton. However, devising an integrated bracelet for a case as complicated as the Maestro was surely an even more complex challenge.
To accomplish this feat, in fact, the case was slightly modified to become even more suitable for integration with a steel bracelet. First of all, the dimensions have changed: from 39 mm wide and 41 mm long, we have changed to 38 mm for both sizes.
A further change is found on the edges of the case, which to become one with the slender line of the bracelet, have been cut and made more angular.
Now we come to the actual bracelet. The result is truly splendid. The new Masterlink bracelet has a three-link construction with an alternating polished finish for the side links and brushed finish for the wider central link.
Thanks to the Maison’s attention to detail, no screws can be seen in the links when wearing the watch. This is because the construction is designed to keep each of the screws inside.
The Dial
Another new feature of the new Masterlink is the dial. What at first glance might look like vertical grooves are actually the result of a two-layer construction, almost like a “Sandwich” dial. In fact, a second layer is applied to the “full” dial that has been hollowed out following the vertical lines. This solution allows a play of shadows that accentuates the three-dimensionality
To follow the more angular line of the case, the indexes and spheres were also redesigned. The rounded lines of the Maestro were replaced by applied spheres and indexes characterized by angular lines and well-defined angles.
The winding crown of the new Gerald Charles Masterlink is square and culminates slightly pointed. Applied along the entire contour is a Clou de Paris decoration reminiscent of that found on the rubber straps in the Maestro collection.
The Caliber
By rotating the watch, the caliber GCA 5401 manufactured by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier can be admired from the sapphire crystal case back. The thickness of only 2.67 mm is also made possible by the use of a fascinating micro-rotor engraved with Gerald Charles’ iconic honeycomb symbol.
The movement is decorated with Côte de Genève and Perlage finishes and has a characteristic dark gray color due to the finish. The power reserve is 50 hours.
Final Thoughts
The new Gerald Charles Masterlink is an absolutely successful collection. To combine such a complex and asymmetrical case (vertically) with an integrated bracelet was in itself a daunting task.
To succeed with such a result makes it all the more incredible. In one fell swoop, Gerald Charles has created a fascinating integrated bracelet and revamped the iconic Maestro by giving it an even more modern look that the British would call “sharp.”
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