We are in a historical moment in which watches are increasingly passed from hand to hand and, as they change owners, the completeness of the kit (as we have explained here) and the condition of the timepiece itself are rewarded in the sale, as in all sectors. .

Especially in the case of brands such as Rolex and Audemars Piguet, which make external finishes one of their strengths, we always look for a piece that has all the parts polished without a minimum sign and all the parts that are instead born as brushed with all the perfectly parallel lines, as if they have just come out of the factory. Unfortunately, despite the attention given to it, it is inevitable to scratch, albeit slightly, such a watch (the so-called hairlines, i.e. lines as thin as a hair).

As the first scratches appear, each of us collectors first think – probably after swearing – “Will there be a way to restore my watch?”.

Do not despair, by analyzing more in depth how to improve conditions specifically, there are different ways to restore a timepiece and in this article we will focus on laser material coating, one of the most efficient and least invasive techniques we have available.

How does it work

It often happens that, especially for older models, the watches have undergone polishing to remove scratches. However, this process, if not carried out masterfully, causes a modification of the original shape of the case, excessively rounding edges and removing too much material.

Other times excessively strong blows can cause deep marks in the metal of the timepiece, making it extremely unpleasant to the eye.

Thanks to the laser and lapping, both of these processes are now reversible. In fact, the localized metal fusion is able to deposit the missing metal where it is needed in an extremely precise way and, by proceeding to polishing with a lapping machine, the original shapes can be restored.

The Lap (or lapping machine), for those who ask, is a numerically controlled machine that performs extremely precise polishing and satin finishing, making the timepieces return as if they had just left the parent company.

How to spot an original watch from one that was lasered and lapped

The real question, however, is moral. Namely, whether it is ethically correct to make extremely damaged watches like new. In fact, assuming that this process, especially for the less experienced, is invisible to the naked eye, it often happens that sellers do not indicate that watches have been subjected to this treatment.

There are numerous opinions about it, but many tend to demonize this practice because without the right equipment it is impossible to identify it with respect to an original. Do not despair though, even if it is rather complicated it is possible to distinguish the added metal. To do this, it is necessary to have specialized lamps or by analyzing the behavior of the watch in relationship to some liquids, thanks to the different porosity of the different metals.

Surely, such a tool is just godsend for our trusted companions and it would be a shame not to exploit it. Unfortunately, however, in the vast majority of cases, the process is not explicited, resulting in a sort of scam for the unsuspecting buyer.

Our take

We personally have nothing against the use of laser, as long as it is mentioned at the time of sale. We live in a world where perfection is (almost) always sought after and understandably many people prefer to have their watch fixed from time to time rather than accumulate scratches after scratches.

Unfortunately nowadays, the treatment carried out is only rarely indicated and this means that a “remodeled” watch often has the same price as one that is really new and in excellent condition.

Polishing is more easily identifiable but when it comes to the use of the laser the situation becomes really difficult. We therefore invite you to rely on trusted sellers and, if you do not have the right skills, to be accompanied and supported by an expert.

With the hope that in the future there will be more transparency in this area as well, we wish you good luck in purchasing your next piece!

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