Geneva Auctions November 2019: our favorites

DATE
07 November 2019
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As usual, IWS introduces you to our editors’ favorite pieces from November 2019 Geneva Auctions.

This time we tried to give you an overview of some rarities and goodies that will be auctioned, out of the box…

Let us know yours and… let’s find out something new together!

For an overview of the auction results and some stories, click here!


Sotheby’s Important Watches, Lot 476

Usually those who opt for white gold do so for a matter of discretion, but you don’t need to be a watch enthusiast to notice a Rolex King Midas.

Attributed to none other than Gérald Genta, this very rare model never reached the masses and that was exactly what Rolex wanted. Produced in only 1000 specimens, each made from a solid gold ingot, this specific piece is made even more exclusive by the use of white gold instead of the more canonical yellow gold.
Wrongly attributed to the Cellini line, the King Midas was born as an independent model, intended for the most selected élite, able to appreciate what at the time was the heaviest and most expensive gold watch in the world.

The charm of the King Midas doesn’t end there. Its asymmetrical shape is designed to be worn on the right wrist, in honor of King Midas, who possessed the legendary touch in his left hand. The crown is then on the left, the shape of which wants to recall the Sun rising over Olympus.

I don’t guarantee it will give you the power of turning everything into gold, but I’m sure this little secret by Rolex, loved as much by Elvis Presley as John Wayne, will never stop captivating you.

Lot 476
Estimate: 10.000 – 15.000 CHF (9.128 – 13.692 €)
Sold for approx. 15.000 € (16.250 CHF).

Lorenzo S.
Editor and translator


Christies Rare Watches, Lot 32

When it comes to diamonds on watches, the opinion of collectors is divided into two factions: those who love them and those who hate them.
As a great “hater“, no matter, of this category, last year I reconsidered them so much so that my favorite piece of this 2019 Geneva auction is actually this Rolex Daytona Ref. 116599 SA.

I chose it because, in 2019, we are going more and more toward a single trend: steel, simple, with integrated bracelet. With a piece like this, however, we can firmly demonstrate our position, our status as collectors, with that pinch of inspiration that never hurts.

We are facing a 2002 model that rarely appears on the market. Nevertheless, the protagonist are, of course, diamonds. 48 brilliant-cut on the lugs, while on the bezel we see 48 baguette diamonds and 12 baguette sapphires to mark the hour indices.

Aimed only at a demanding, niche and very high-level clientele, these watches are the flagship of modern Rolex collecting, and deserve to be rewarded more than they already are.

Lot 32
Estimate: CHF 60.000 – 100.000 (53.930 – 89.883€)
Sold for approx. 80.000 € (87.500CHF)

Andrea C.
Editor in Chief


Phillips, Double Signed, Lot 14

After a period of decline, yellow gold is slowly returning to be appreciated by collectors. For this reason I chose the yellow gold version of the Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542, much rarer and exclusive than the usual steel.

If that wasn’t enough, what makes this Rolex Gmt Master almost unique is the double signed dial by the prestigious Venezuelan jewelry Serpico y Laino, as well as the amazing conditions.
Don’t you know what we mean by “double signed dial“? Find out  here!

To get an idea of the rarity, just think that only another Rolex 6542 in gold with Serpico y Laino signed dial appeared at auction, more precisely from Antiquorum, in 2007. It is also worth remembering that between the two watches there is a distance of only 4 serial numbers, which shows how Rolex sent to dealers the watches in batches.

Beyond all consideration on the market and the quotes, the Rolex Gmt Master ref. 6542 (of which you can find a guide here) in gold embodies an unique charm, reserved only for the few able to understand it. In fact, especially in the 1950s, the Rolex Gmt Master was considered a “tool watch”, which, by definition, had to be made of steel. Very rarely did someone buy such a watch in a precious metal, although today we thank those who, perhaps unconsciously, had the courage to dare.

Lot 14
Estimate: CHF 150.000 – 300.000 (137.000-257.000€)
UNSOLD

Lorenzo R.
Reviewer and editor


Phillips, Double Signed, Lot 58

Before discovering this rare piece, I considered this reference a normal Patek Philippe chronograph from the mid-50s, probably because in the first series of dials, indices were squared and I didn’t appreciate them much

This 1579 model, on the other hand, contains enough details that made me completely change my mind and lose my mind.

We are facing a Patek Philippe ref.1579 chronograph “spider lugs”, with solid 18 kt rose gold case produced in 1946.

The peculiarities that make this watch unique are many.

First, the stick indices completely change the dial, making it less “heavy” and more readable than square ones.

Another feature that I find fascinating is the presence of an unusual pulsometric scale, suitable for medical use, compared to the classic tachymetric scale that we usually find on these chronographs.

Third but not less important factor that makes this watch (almost) unique and the presence of the Freccero signature at 6 o’clock.

“Double signed” dials, as you know, are increasingly loved and sought after by collectors.

In this case, of the 174 produced, only 7 were sold by Freccero, a major Uruguayan retailer, and only 3 have a pusoletric scale instead of tachymetric.

The combination of these features makes this chronograph a much-desired piece by collectors for its beauty and rarity and is destined to record a much higher price than auction base and estimates.

Lot 58
Estimate: CHF 120.000-240.000 (€111.000-221.000)
Sold for approx. 150.000 € (162.500 CHF).

Giulio M.
Editor


Phillips, Double Signed, Lot 34

We all know Patek Philippe for his flair in making complicated watches, with movements composed of so many pieces, that can give a headache.
But how complicated can a watch, that appears to be so simple, be?

To answer this question, we consider a wonderful Patek Philippe ref. 565, dated 1955.
Clean and essential lines, a single time that in the eyes of most may seem trivial, but that has truly respectable characteristics.

After all, if Phillips’s value is CHF80.000–160.000 (as of 72.400–145.000) there will be a reason, right?

One of the peculiarities of this Patek Philippe ref.565, seen in our previous article, is that it turns out to be the only model known to date with steel case and back built by the company founded by  Francois Borgel. It also turns out to have a diameter of 34.5mm (excluding crown), generous in relation to what were the aesthetic standards of the time.

The dial

One of the first things that stands out looking at the dial, is that at 6 o’clock we find the name of the jewelry that, on August 23, 1955, sold of the watch: Asprey. This places in the Double Signed” category.  We can then observe the particular “Breguet numerals”, a detail of extreme aesthetic finesse used by the most prestigious watchmakers.

The movement is also a real work of art. There are no other words to describe the manual-charged cal.27SC featured in this Patek Philippe. “Variable inertia” balance spring, “swan neck” micro-regulation, separate bridges with “Côtes de Genève” finish, are just some of the details that distinguish it.  

Hands and crown

A very rare combination, which we can consider at least unusual for Patek Philippe.
In fact, we’re used to see these fantastic “diamond” hands on models by Universal Geneve, while the characteristic “priest’s hat” crown turns out to be a Movado’s hallmark, as well as this model. Details that make this classic, however complex, Patek Philippe even more unique.

Lot 34
Estimate: CHF80.000–160.000 (€72.400–145.000)
Sold for approx. 275.000€ (300.000 CHF).

Alessandro M.
Editor


Sotheby’s Important Watches, Lot 322

Lots from different auction houses are always full of unique pieces: from oldest models to modern ones, from watches produced in limited edition to the most iconic and famous. For this reason, it wasn’t easy to choose one, but in the end I decided to talk to you about the Vacheron Costantin “Batman.”

This model, dated 1948 circa, is for sale in lot 322 at Sotheby’s auction house. The watch features a 35.5 mm rose gold case and leather strap. What immediately catches us is the unusual shape of the lugs, characteristic of Vacheron Constantin’s vintage models (an example are the famous Cornes de Vache). In this case, lugs are shaped as bat wings, a hallmark that motivates the nickname “Batman” (nothing to share with the name of the much better known Batman produced by Rolex).

The size, generous for the time, as well as materials, make this watch an accessory of great elegance and style for the owner’s wrist. I also believe that this model is a witness of Vacheron Constantin’s boldness and foresight in design and innovation.

Lot 322
Estimate: 5.000 – 7.000 CHF  (4.560 – 6.390 EUR)
Sold for approx. 7.800 € (8.500 CHF).

Enrico L.
Editor


Honorable mentions

Several very important watches are missing from our list, which will be auctioned this weekend as well.
We haven’t forgotten!!! Some of these pieces will be the protagonists of articles in the future, but also for others, it would have been a lack not to list them!

Phillips

  1. The Geneva Auction x, Lot 179
    Patek Philippe ref. 173 “Tasti Tondi”
    Estimate: CHF300.000 – 600.000 (€276.000-553.000)
    UNSOLD
  2. The Geneva Auction x, Lot 173
    Rolex Daytona ref. 16528 The “Big Blue”
    Estimate: CHF200.000 – 300.000 (€184.000-276.000)
    Sold for approx. 275.000 € (300.000 CHF).
  3. The Geneva Auction x, Lot 175
    Rolex ref. 8171 “Padellone
    Estimate: CHF500.000 – 1.000.000 (€457.000-915.000)
    Sold for approx. 943.000€ circa (1.028.000 CHF).
  4. The Geneva Auction x, Lot 139
    Rolex Chronograph ref. 4113 Split Seconds
    Estimate: sopra 1.5M CHF (1.36M€)
    Sold for approx. 1.780.000 € (1.940.000 CHF).
  5. The Geneva Auction x, Lot 136
    Zenith El Primero “The One-Off”
    See our dedicated article!
    Sold for approx. 230.000€ (250.000 CHF).

Christies

  1. Rare Watches, Lot 215
    Rolex Daytona ref. 6262
    Estimate: CHF 340.000 – CHF 540.000 (€ 304.293 – € 483.290)
    Sold for approx. 399.000€ circa (435.000 CHF).
  2. Rare Watches, Lot 112
    Patek Philippe ref. 3448
    Estimate: CHF 400.000 – CHF 600.000 (€ 357.992 – € 536.988)
    UNSOLD
  3. Rare Watches, Lot 151
    Patek Philippe ref. 3974 Automatic Perpetual Calendar with Minute Repeater
    Estimate: CHF 250.000 – CHF 450.000 (€ 223.745 – € 402.741)
    Sold for approx.  344.500 € (375.000 CHF).
  4. Rare Watches, Lot 212
    Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 “Explorer” Dial (3 6 9)
    Estimate: CHF 250.000 – CHF 350.000(€ 223.745 – € 313.243)
    UNSOLD
  5. Rare Watches, Lot 145
    Vacheron Constantin ref. 15542/973G-7 with more than 40 baguette-cut diamdonds
    Estimate: CHF 170.000 – CHF 270.000 (€ 152.147 – € 241.645)
    Sold for approx. 195.000€ (212.500 CHF).
  6. Rare Watches, Lotto 154
    Patek Philippe Minute repeater owned by Henry Graves Jr.
    Estimate: CHF 3.000.000 – CHF 5.000.000 (EUR 2.703.963 – EUR 4.506.604)
    Sold for approx. 4.200.000€ (4.575.000 CHF).

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