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Patek Philippe‘s much-talked-about and long-awaited new creation has finally seen the light of day under the curious eyes of the entire watchmaking world.
It has been since 1997 since the Maison launched a new line of men’s sports timepieces, but more importantly we are facing a major change of direction in terms of the design of its watches, which have been characterized since the brand’s inception by a rounded and graceful style.
So we welcome the Cubitus collection, a trio of bold (for some daring) new watches that reinterpret the maison’s “sporty-elegant” style and mix tradition and innovation, winking at the future by adopting a new Art Deco-inspired aesthetic language.
The Geneva-based house, renowned for the technical mastery and aesthetic care of its creations, presents three new models in this unprecedented collection, each featuring a 45mm square case with rounded corners, sporting a revamped design and the classic visual signature on the dial with horizontal relief pattern that has always characterized its “brother” Nautilus.
The Cubitus Collection
Before going into detail about each of the models, we will pause to analyze this new collection as a whole.
At first glance, Cubitus is undoubtedly inspired by the Nautilus collection. The pattern on the dial, the hour markers, the spheres, even the integrated bracelet, are identical.
The main change is in the case, which becomes square. At first glance this may seem like a completely new solution for Patek Philippe, however, this is not the case. Going backwards through the history of the Maison, we can recall the reference 3854 from the 1970s. This is undoubtedly a very influential source of inspiration for the birth of the new Cubitus.
We should point out, however, that the Patek Philippe reference 3854 had a diameter of only 29 mm, a far cry from the 45 mm to which the new Cubitus collection has been brought. This is probably the strangest feature of the entire collection, especially for European enthusiasts like us who tend to prefer smaller sizes.
In terms of calibers, we find interesting innovations for the Grand Date, Day and Moonphase while the two references with dates, are given the classic 26 – 330 S C. The decision to adopt this caliber was much discussed by purists who hoped for the introduction of a new shape caliber.
Il Patek Philippe Cubitus 5822P Grande data, giorno e fasi lunari istantanei
At the center of the collection is the Patek Philippe Cubitus Grande Date, Day of the Week and Instantaneous Moon Phases (Ref. 5822P), a platinum model that introduces an entirely new complication. The caliber 240 PS CI J LU automatic movement (with 22-carat gold micro-rotor), equipped with six registered patents, enables it to display the simultaneous striking of the date, day (hand) and moon phase, with extraordinary precision and incredible speed, at the stroke of midnight.
The new caliber beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3hz) while retaining a maximum power reserve of 48 hours.
The blue soleil dial is embellished with the characteristic horizontal relief motif and topped by the imposing “double-window” date at 12 o’clock; the hands and applied hour markers are in white gold. In the lower part of the dial, however, we find two counters: the larger one contains the day of the week and the moon phase, while the smaller one the seconds.
As already anticipated, the case and bezel are made of platinum with satin and polished workings, which alternate, breaking up the monotony of the finish and tickling the eye of the beholder.
As in every Patek featuring a platinum case, we find a white diamond (this time baguette cut that echoes the “angular” shapes of the case) set in the bezel at 6 o’clock, a sign of exclusive luxury always appreciated by the brand’s collectors.
The ultra-strong composite strap with platinum deployment clasp emphasizes the watch’s sporty yet refined style.
The list price of this reference is EUR 89,100.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821/1AR Date
The Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821/1AR Instead, it represents the bi-color version of the collection, combining steel and rose gold. The design is inspired by a vintage aesthetic, while maintaining a modern touch thanks to the sunburst blue dial with rose gold indexes and satin and polished finishes that accentuate the contrast between the materials.
In this two-tone variant, the rose gold bezel and central links of the bracelet match the steel case middle and side links, which create a refined contrast, enhanced by alternating vertical polished and satin finishes as on the complicated platinum model.
This sublime timepiece is powered by the automatic caliber 26-330 S C, designed on the basis of 2019’s 26330, equipped with cutting-edge technical functions such as stop seconds, date window, and other technical innovations that particularly affect the winding system.
The transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the architecture and finish of the movement, with the central 21-carat gold rotor decorated with the same horizontal motif as the dial-the signature feature of Cubitus models.
The steel and rose gold bracelet features is the same one used for the Nautilus. It features a lockable adjustment system and a patented Patek Philippe folding clasp with four independent attachment points, for wearability that is both comfortable and secure.
The list price is 61,780 EUR.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821/1A Date
The sportiest interpretation of the collection is undoubtedly the Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821/1A , made entirely of steel.
The olive green soleil dial and slim case (8.3 mm thick) embody the quintessential “sporty and elegant” style.
Also in this model we find caliber 26-330 S C, with advanced functions and impeccable design. The integrated steel bracelet includes an extension system that provides comfort and adaptability, key features for a timepiece designed for versatile use.
The list price of the Cubitus 5821/1A is EUR 41,580.
Conclusions
With the new Cubitus collection, Patek Philippe certainly made waves. For the first time since 1997, the Maison launched a new men’s collection, and this undoubtedly carried a big responsibility.
Only time will tell if the Cubitus will enter the Olympus of Watchmaking Icons as it has been for other collections from the Patek house.
Ah, I almost forgot! In addition to the watches, the Maison also introduced a line of matching cufflinks that echo the horizontal relief pattern and colors of the dials, completing a perfectly coordinated offering for lovers of sophisticated luxury. What is this if not “love for its discerning customers”?
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