It is evident that the fashion for “revival” watches has been gaining momentum in recent years. Many fashion houses are aiming to re-propose watches from their past in a modern key, as if to underline the qualities and peculiarities that have made the brand itself what it is today.

A “thank you” to its history, which restores life and importance to iconic timepieces, and allows all of us to enjoy a design or movement currently reserved only for the world of collectible vintage.

Some examples of this fashion, I would say “philosophy”, can be the various re-editions of the Omega Speedmasters, some of which see the return of the historic caliber 321. By the way, I recommend you to read Omega’s Caliber 321: The Story Of A Myth.

Or Longines which very recently relaunched its new Ultra-Chron, directly inspired by the original diver from the 1960s, a celebrity in the world of timepiece mechanics. If you haven’t seen it yet, here is the link for you. (The New Longines ULTRA-CHRON Heritage: The Most Precise Diver of the Abyss).

Breitling also recently released a new edition of the Navitimer, taking up an important icon of technical watchmaking, the Cosmonaute (Breitling Presents The New Navitimer Cosmonaute: A Watch With 60 Years Of Space History).

In short, many brands are focusing on re-proposing the design of historical models – sometimes even the complete movement – obviously updated and modified in order to adapt to the needs of our time.

What if instead of a reissue an authentic vintage is offered?

A real vintage watch, where it is possible not only to admire the style and ingenuity of the time, but even to feel its age. Being able to perceive the difference between a watch made today and a watch made decades ago; truly savor the manufacture of the past, which only original machinery and tools can give. The skilful hand of the artisans who have really created a piece of history, without the aid of new technologies; the touch and signature of characters who created and defined what we now call the unique and precious know-how of a company.

Patek Philippe has managed to do this too: to offer the public a true vintage heart, enclosed by a contemporary case made ad-hoc on the movement. This watch is the Patek Philippe 3670A, let’s find out together.

The heart of the 3670A: the caliber 13-130

We could define the birth of this splendid model as “fortuitous”. In 1996, in what is the current location of the Geneva boutique of Patek Philippe – in Rue de Rhône 41 -, a box was found that had been forgotten for years on the fifth floor of the building. This box contained sixteen complete 13-130 calibers, made and assembled in 1955 and have remained untouched ever since. A box of time that has protected and kept mechanical jewels.

Caliber 13 was one of the most important calibers in the history of Patek Philippe: it moved all the models of references 130, 530, 533, 591, 1579, 1506, the 1463 known as “Round Buttons” and if modified in 13-130Q animated the legendary 1518; in a nutshell it has been the quintessential Patek chronograph movement for many years.

Its enormous success undoubtedly derives from the excellent basis on which the caliber 13 relies: the Valjoux 23. An iconic chronograph movement, which has made the history of mechanical chronography.

The intrinsic quality of this movement made it so famous that it was used both as a ready-made movement and as a workbench by many high-sounding fashion houses. Suffice it to say that its direct evolution, the Valjoux 72, has been modified and customized by Rolex to be used on the first Cosmographs and the first Daytona.

Patek has always used the best supply moves around in order to do his magic. The Valjoux 23 for Caliber 13, like the Lemania 2310 for CH27, are two examples of already exceptional calibers, and after being expertly elaborated, they came to animate some of the finest watches ever made.

Caliber 13 is a 23-jewel hand-wound chronograph movement with a 42-hour power reserve and 18,000 vibrations per hour balance wheel oscillation. It features a stunning degree of finish, as one would expect from Patek Philippe: no detail is overlooked, such as the finely polished ring that covers the column wheel.

A splendid movement, which Patek has been able to exploit with the 3670A, giving it a completely new character.

The PP 3670A: the case and the design

In order to honor this historic discovery, Patek has decided to dare with the case and with the style, not limiting itself to reusing a case with a design coeval with the caliber.

The cushion case, between the square and the tonneau, is quite unusual for a chronograph, but not for Patek: in fact it is the same case used for the 5950A split-seconds chronograph. It is made of steel, its lines are soft and rounded, gently welcoming the 13-130. The finish is completely polished, while a slight step surrounds the convex glass of the same shape as the case.

The dial is black, with a delicate vertical satin finish; the applied indexes are baton and the handwriting, like the spheres, are white. A light and classic dial, but with the typical Patek Philippe personality. By turning the watch, the beautiful movement can be admired through the pressure-fit caseback, shaped like the case. You can appreciate the masterfully executed finishes on each bridge and on each lever. It is possible to see on the bridge of the chronograph the seal that underlines the very high quality of the movement: the hallmark of Geneva. This seal is only affixed if the gauge and each component comply with strict rules of finish, precision and quality.

A watch that still manages to stand out without being too flashy, fully embodying Patek Philippe’s past and present. Given the availability of only sixteen movements, the 3670A was released in a limited edition of sixteen examples at a list price of 250,000 CHF. The official presentation of this timepiece dates back to 2011, more than ten years ago.

In conclusion

As we said at the beginning, rediscovering and restoring value to one’s past is a feature common to many of the latest releases of recent years. Sometimes it is necessary to stop and retrace one’s history to understand who and what one has become today; take inspiration from past experiences and treasure the successes and mistakes that have been experienced.

This is a very interesting philosophy, the Patek Philippe 3670A is a clear example of it; besides being pleased with how this habit of “looking at the past” is spreading in many fashion houses, we at IWS can only be curious about how the next productions will be able to surprise us, hoping to see this way of making watchmaking even more widespread!