If you are thinking about three watches to give yourself having a budget of EUR 5,000, today I will tell you which ones to focus on to have three timepieces on your wrist for any eventuality. The perfect collection represents an ideal balance between versatility, elegance and functionality, covering the needs of every enthusiast, from the seasoned collector to the neophyte who wants an essential, yet complete set. A well-considered trio should include a dress watch, a diver, and a chronograph, each with unique and complementary features.
Dress watch: Cartier Tank Must
The Cartier Tank Must is the ultimate elegant watch, ideal for formal occasions and refined work environments. Typically featuring a minimalist design (looking at it from above it resembles a tank, hence the name), with a clean dial and slim case, it is free of superfluous complications.
It retains the classic style of the Tank, created back in 1917, but is distinguished by its variety of colored dials, including monochromatic models such as red, blue and green, as well as the classic white version with Roman numerals. The crown is decorated with the distinctive blue cabochon, a distinctive Cartier detail.
Made from high-quality materials such as stainless steel or gold plating, with black or brown leather straps, the Tank Must comes in different sizes, making it suitable for both male and female audiences. It is often powered by quartz movements, but some versions also offer hand-wound mechanical movements.
In short, a dress watch like this should not only be beautiful, but also comfortable, discreet and refined. Its simplicity makes it a timeless piece, destined to remain a classic over time. The price? Well, buying it new in boutiques the figure is around EUR 3,600 , on the other hand, you are a fan of vintage or second wrist, you could also find it at prices starting from EUR 1,500 and up.
Diver watch: Squale 1521
A dive watch, or skin-diver, is essential for those who want a rugged, water-resistant (not only) and versatile instrument. A clear candidate for these peculiarities is the Squale 1521, an iconic dive watch, famous for its functional design and long tradition associated with the world of professional diving. Manufactured by the Swiss company Squale, which has specialized in dive watches since the 1950s, the 1521 sets a benchmark in the industry for reliability, robustness, and classic aesthetics.
It features a 316L stainless steel case with a diameter of 42 mm, with brushed or polished finish depending on the variant. The case’s tapered shape and slim lugs contribute to an excellent fit even on smaller wrists. The 120-turn unidirectional rotating bezel features a graduated scale for calculating dive times, with a scratch-resistant aluminum or steel insert.
Completing the watch is a Sellita SW200-1 Swiss automatic movement, a caliber known for its precision and reliability. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of about 38 hours. The screw-down crown and tightened case back guaranteewater resistance to 500 meters (50 ATM), making it suitable for professional diving. For EUR 1,021 it is an excellent companion for marine adventures.
Chrono watch: Wyler Vetta Jumbostar
The chronograph is the third key element in a collection of three watches, with its technical and functional design adding a touch of complexity. This type of watch, equipped with a stopwatch function, is perfect for those who appreciate sophisticated mechanics and the ability to measure time intervals. For this feature an excellent competitor is the Wyler Vetta Jumbostar; an iconic sports watch that stands out for its rugged design and vintage charm.
Originally launched in the 1960s and recently revisited, it features a large stainless steel case (about 40 mm in diameter), which contributes to its “Jumbostar” name. This model features a double-crown configuration: one for setting the time and the other for operating the rotating inner bezel, a distinctive feature for event timing or diving uses. The bi-compax dial is highly legible, thanks to luminescent hour markers and hands that ensure visibility even in low-light conditions.
Inside, the Jumbostar is powered by a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 A/h. With water resistance typically around 100 meters, it is designed for versatile use, suitable for both sports and casual settings. Price EUR 2,900.
Conclusions
Building a collection of three watches requires attention to detail, a balance between aesthetics and functionality, and, above all, choosing models that reflect the personality of the collector. A well-curated selection not only covers every practical need, but also becomes a legacy to be handed down over time, a symbol of taste and passion for watchmaking.
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