Nowadays, independent brands are the ultimate expression of innovation and creativity for the watchmaking world. In this segment, MB&F is a major player.
The watches born from the mind of Max Büsser have always stood out, ever since the founding of the brand in 2005 and the creation of the first model two years later, for their out-of-the-box design and, consequently, for the technical innovations associated with them. Importantly, Büsser’s talent and success had already manifested itself in earlier years, when, at the head of Harry Winston’s watchmaking division, he created a new kind of timepiece by collaborating with some of the most incredible artists of the day, such as Antoine Preziuso, François-Paul Journe, and Ludovic Ballouard, resulting in the Opus collection, still beloved by collectors of independent creations today.
In creating these timepieces, Büsser’s starting point has always been a great deal of inspiration derived from worlds outside watchmaking, particularly the automotive world, with retro-futuristic vehicles from the last century, as well as from science fiction, aquatic life forms and the animal kingdom. His wristwatches, as well as his other creations, represent a different approach to the complexity of the watchmaking industry, contributing to its change.
In this article we will trace the history of the brand through its different lines and most iconic models.
The beginning: MB&F HM1
After two years of work on Max Büsser’s part to find what are now known as “& friends” and after finding retailers willing to fully espouse his project, he presented to the world the first watch in the collection, Horological Machine No. 1.
Already with this first creation, the brand made perfectly clear the philosophy it would want to adopt over the years: an attractive, out-of-the-box design, without forgetting to innovate through new and cutting-edge technical solutions. Indeed, this HM1 features, for the first time, an automatic movement that uses four barrels, connected to each other both in series and in parallel. It was also the first wristwatch movement capable of simultaneously transmitting energy from two sources to the regulating system.
The time is shown on two separate dials, perfectly positioned in the “8” shaped case. The hour can be read on the left dial, the minutes on the right, and an additional hand indicates the power reserve. In the center, an exposed tourbillon enriches the preciousness of the watch.
This model marks the beginning of an important journey for MB&F and, in its various dial configurations and case materials, is particularly sought after by collectors. However, it is difficult to establish an average price on the second-hand market for these models, given their scarcity and few appearances in auctions. Prices can range from EUR 42,500 to over EUR 100,000 for the rarest versions, such as the titanium one.
MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt, awarded at GPHG
Büsser’s journey continues unabated, and in 2010 he unveiled the brand’s fourth creation, the HM4 Thunderbolt, inspired by one of his great passions of the past: aviation.
The highest expression of this concept is reached with the two special editions ‘Razzle Dazzle’ and ‘Double Trouble,’ colored by drawing inspiration from the iconic military aircraft of World War II. From a technical point of view, this watch represents no small engineering challenge, wanting to show time and power reserve on two vertical displays, ideal for being worn by an aviator. The movement, to be called an engine in this case, took the brand more than three years to develop with Laurent Besse and Beranger Reynard.
The challenge, both in terms of design and technique, allowed MB&F to make its way into the watchmaking scene, which some fifteen years ago was slowly beginning to understand and appreciate the creations of independent brands. This work was awarded “Best Concept and Design” in 2010 at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie.
MB&F LM1, the First Legacy Machine
Toward the end of 2011, the brand introduced a watch that was really different from what it had accustomed us to, adopting a decidedly more traditional style. This new line of watches would since then be called “Legacy Machines,” intending to be a tribute to the great watchmakers of the past. Max Büsser wondered what kind of innovations he could have brought to watchmaking if he had been born a century earlier, in 1867, without being able to be inspired by science fiction movies, cars and airplanes, but rather by the Eiffel Tower or the books of Jules Verne.
The LM1 watch is distinguished by its large 14 mm diameter balance wheel, which is the most visible and distinctive component of the collection. Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen were the two minds behind Büsser’s ideas, creating an unusual but incredibly finished and striking caliber.
The watch and collection were immediately an incredible success with both the public and critics, winning the Public Prize, voted directly by fans, and the Best Men’s Watch Prize, awarded by the jury, at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in 2012.
MB&F and Reuge: MusicMachine 1
MusicMachine 1 is the brand’s first creation to approach the world of music with a music box that is different from the usual. It contains all the traditional and established elements of a high-end music box, but is designed and configured in a completely unconventional way.
The music produced by the music box turns out to be different from what we are used to. In fact, each of the cylinders of MusicMachine 1 plays three tunes. On the left, “May the Force Be with You” from the Star Wars saga, along with “Imperial March” and the Star Trek soundtrack. Back on Earth, the right cylinder plays Pink Floyd’s “Another Brick in the Wall,” Deep Purple’s “Smoke on the Water” and John Lennon’s “Imagine.”
To produce a creation so different from what MB&F had been accustomed to up to that point, the maison collaborated with Reuge, a company based in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, which has more than 150 years of expertise in creating high-end music boxes, combining acoustics and first-rate aesthetics. Although Reuge typically works independently, it has fully embraced MB&F’s philosophy, resulting in the MusicMachines series.
MB&F LM Sequential EVO
Throughout his years in the business, Maximilian Büsser was clear that the brand’s customers would hardly see a chronograph in the collection. Not because the complication did not appeal to him, but because the goal had always been to create something new that did not yet exist on the market. After 17 years of creating watchmaking art and 19 previously produced calibres, MB&F presents us with something extraordinary with the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO.
This watch is part of the EVO collection, characterized by greater robustness than the other collections, designed to be used in a variety of situations, especially sports, providing comfort and technical performance perfect for these occasions.
But what makes this chronograph unique? The movement of the LM Sequential EVO incorporates two column-wheel chronographs and a revolutionary “Twinverter” binary switch, which allows for different timing modes: independent timing, jerk chronograph, sequential (stopwatch by laps) and even a cumulative “chess game” mode, a combination never before seen in a wristwatch.
The creation of this extraordinary watch and movement was mainly thanks to Stephen McDonnell, a longtime collaborator of the house. This watch enabled MB&F to win, in 2022, the most prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie award, theAiguille d’Or.
Conclusions
MB&F’s history is certainly short compared to that of many other brands, but the brilliant minds behind the brand have managed to carve out a very important slice of the watchmaking landscape, establishing themselves as both technical and aesthetic innovators.
In a recent article, we discussedChanel’s acquisition of some shares in the brand; we will see what the future holds for MB&F, hoping that it can contribute to new projects and creations.
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