In the European independent watchmaking segment, Studio Sarpaneva occupies a well-defined position. Founded in Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva, the brand is distinguished by low-scale production, a strong focus on craftsmanship, and an atypical aesthetic language built around references related to Nordic culture and symbolism.
Sarpaneva’s professional background, from his training in Finland and subsequent experience at Piaget and Parmigiani Fleurier, is reflected in a deliberate technical approach, especially in the reworking of movements and realization of dials. His best-known collections are characterized by three-dimensional workmanship, skeletonized surfaces, engraved components, and the recurring use of the hand-carved moon, which over time has become a true stylistic signature. Production is deliberately limited and aimed at an audience of enthusiasts and collectors who favor strong identity and character.
Within this ecosystem was born S.U.F Helsinki (SarpanevaUhrenFabrik), a platform designed for collaborative projects and special series. Compared to Studio Sarpaneva’s production, S.U.F offers greater design flexibility and a more experimental approach, while maintaining consistency with the brand’s core values such as: attention to materials, design refinement, and limited productions.
The collaborations developed under this label involve figures from different creative fields, such as in the case of artist Mo Coppoletta, with whom S.U.F Helsinki has already realized several joint projects.
The New Vetehinen Mo Coppoletta III
The third collaboration is named VETEHINEN. The reference is to the Finnish mythological figure of Vetehinen, an entity associated with the sea and the depths. The stated concept of the project revolves around the dialectic between natural elements and human control, a theme that informs the watch’s aesthetic and material choices.
The absolute centerpiece is the dial produced with iron eye, a natural stone composed of tiger’s eye, red jasper and hematite, of South African origin. The spheres are traditional two-tone black Sarpaneva, treated with Swiss Super-Luminova®, a solution that ensures legibility while maintaining continuity with the brand’s language.
Mechanically, the watch is powered by a modified Soprod A10 automatic caliber running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with 42 hours of power reserve and 25 jewels. The movement is well finished with rhodium plating, perlage and Côtes de Genève.
The strong character of the case is made of Finnish Outokumpu SUPRA 316L/4435 steel, a detail that is anything but trivial, as it reiterates the material connection with the territory. The dimensions are balanced: 42 mm diameter, 11.45 mm thick and 51 mm lug-to-lug. The 2.05 mm sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while the unidirectional bezel engraved by Mo Coppoletta with Swiss Lumicast® insert introduces a strong, almost totemic graphic component.
Sarpaneva’s signature screw-down crown, steel case back with dedicated design, and water resistance to 30 ATM complete an ensemble that is not only conceptual, but also concretely robust.
Conclusions
The set includes two straps: one handmade 20 mm elk leather (ELK), the other 20 mm black natural rubber, accompanied by an 18 mm Sarpaneva steel pin buckle. Here again, the choice of materials and aesthetic consistency confirm a careful approach.
The model is produced in a limited edition of 26. The price is set at 6,000 euros (0% VAT) or 7,530 euros with 25.5% Finnish VAT.
Overall, the VETEHINEN fits consistently into the philosophy of Studio Sarpaneva and S.U.F Helsinki. It is a structured project in which concept, materials and technical specifications converge in an orderly manner. It is the same logic that characterizes Sarpaneva’s main production: objects designed with a strong identity, distributed in limited numbers and intended for an audience that first evaluates consistency, quality of execution and solidity of design.
In this sense, the collaboration with Mo Coppoletta is not a variation on the theme, but a continuity in the “natural” path of the brand.
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