Just imagine an artist like Andy Warhol catapulted into the modern day, surely he would have been a major influencer with millions of followers in his wake and would have founded a virtual Factory where artists, ideas, and watch enthusiasts could come together!

Warhol, an icon of Pop Art and a leading figure in the 20th century cultural scene, was not only a prolific artist, but also a collector and lover of art in all its forms.

Among his innumerable passions, one that particularly stands out is his love of luxury watches. During his lifetime, Warhol amassed a collection boasting the beauty of no less than 313 watches that reflected his sophisticated taste and obsession with image and style.

This collection was not only an expression of his interest in design, but also a symbol of the time itself, a recurring theme in his art, as in the cycle of his famous “Marilyn” or “Campbell’s Soup Cans,” works that capture eternal moments of popular culture in vogue in the 1970s and 1980s.

The philosophy of collecting for Andy Warhol

Before exploring the watches that were part of Andy Warhol’s collection, it is important to understand his approach to collecting.

Warhol did not simply buy luxury objects for their intrinsic value, but for the meaning he attached to them. He loved to surround himself with objects that told a story, that had a connection to glamour, celebrity, and iconicity, central elements of his artistic aesthetic.

According to many who knew him, Warhol rarely wore the watches he owned. He preferred to hoard them, leaving them inside their original cases as genuine pieces of art. This curious habit reflected his detached approach to ownership: rather than functional objects, watches were symbols of luxury and prestige for him.

Moreover, the concept of time, represented by the clock, was a fascinating and central theme for Warhol, fitting into a larger discourse on repetition, mortality, and the preservation of image and identity. After all, Warhol was obsessed with the idea of making the ephemeral eternal, as evidenced by his portraits of celebrities who, through art, transcend time and mortality.

Few people know that Mr. Warhol loved to spend his spare time wandering around flea markets and antiques markets, hunting for artwork, furniture items and clocks to add to his huge collection. In short, a true serial hoarder!

His collection included some of the most prestigious and sought-after watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and many others. Each watch he owned represented a piece of history, an icon of design, or a testament to the highest level of craftsmanship.

Let us now explore some of the most famous and celebrated watches that appeared on the wrist of the famous artist.

Andy Warhol’s Cartier

One brand that held a special place in Warhol’s heart was Cartier. The bond between the artist and the French maison, was particularly interesting because it reflected not only his love of elegance, but also of history and tradition. Cartier, which has always stood for luxury and sophistication, was the perfect brand for a genius like Warhol, who loved the idea of taking elite symbols and turning them into pop art objects.

Among the Cartier models owned by Warhol, one of the most famous was the traditional Tank. This watch, with its minimalist rectangular design, has been worn by numerous icons of the past, such as Jackie Kennedy and Yves Saint Laurent. Warhol, who was fascinated by fashion and celebrities, could not resist the allure of a watch so closely linked to pop culture history.

We can certainly say that the 1980s was the time of the Yuppies, a symbol of America’s rampant capitalism, portrayed masterfully by Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in the movie “Wall Street” in which he wore on his wrist, hear hear, a yellow gold Cartier Santos.

So how could the Pop Art icon not wear the symbol of culture and capitalism of that period on her wrist?

In a famous interview, Warhol said, “I don’t wear a Tank to tell time. In fact, I never wind it up. I wear it because it is the watch to wear!” This quote perfectly captures the essence of his philosophy: for Warhol, watches were not utilitarian tools, but objects of status and style, true cultural symbols.

Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe

Another prominent name in Warhol’s collection was Patek Philippe, a brand known for its timeless elegance and craftsmanship.

The most ecclectic and extravagant of his Patek collection, was certainly ref.2503; the dial of the 2503 is clean and minimalist, with applied hour markers and slender hands, expressing an Art Dèco aesthetic thanks in part to the particular ornaments on the rectangular case called “rabbit ears.”

Powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, this model embodies the precision and elegance typical of Patek Philippe, making it a popular piece with collectors but especially with Mr. Pop Art.

One of the relevant specimens of the artist’s breakfast, was the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref.2526 with a dial signed “Serpico Y Laino, “ a simple but extremely refined watch, considered an example of minimalist perfection. This model reflected Warhol’s more sophisticated and intellectual side, contrasting with his love of “kitsch” and popular culture.

It is known for being the first automatic wristwatch produced by Patek Philippe, equipped with the automatic caliber 12-600 AT, considered one of the best automatic movements ever created. Its thick yellow gold case measures 36 mm, a classic and elegant format. The extraordinarily pure Grand Feu enamel dial offers an understated and refined look, with gold applied hour markers and Dauphine-style hands. The model that belonged to Andy Warhol was sold atSotheby’s Fine Watches auctionin New York in 2023 for USD 100,000.

Warhol also owned a 1977 Patek Philippe ref.3448, another example of high-quality watchmaking that reflected his taste for detail and precision. The ref.3448 is a considered one of the best watches ever produced by the Swiss company, known for its automatic movement and enamel dial, which gives it a unique and timeless aesthetic.

Featuring a 37.5 mm round case in yellow gold, it has an elegant, understated design with a clear, well-balanced dial. Complications include date, day, month and moon phase displays. Powered by the Caliber 27-460 automatic movement, it is known for its precision and reliability. The model that belonged to Mr. Warhol was auctioned at Sotheby’s in November 2014 for €265,000 and then resurfaced in December 2023 at auction at Christie’s and was sold for $378,000!

Andy Warhol’s Rolexes

One of the most iconic watch brands that was part of Andy Warhol’s collection was Rolex. Warhol was known to own more than one crowned, and his preference fell on vintage models, which reflected his love of classic, timeless elegance.

Fascinated by vintage timepieces, Andy Warhol came into possession of a prized chronograph from the crowned house, namely the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronograph ref.3525. Considered the precursor of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, this 1943 timepiece is shown in two tones, steel and rose gold with a 35mm case and a riveted bracelet with central links in the same shade as the bezel. It was auctioned in 2019 at Christie’s for the exorbitant sum of 471,000 Swiss francs!

Being the style lover that he was, Mr. Warhol certainly did not disdain to wear ladies’ watches as well, such as his beloved Rolex Datejust ref.69278 also called “Ladies Date” with a very elegant “President” style bracelet.

The last documented Rolex from Andy Warhol’s collection, but no less important, is a highly prized 1940 Oyster Perpetual, referenced as number 4021 and appearing at auction in 1988. Featuring a rose gold case, this watch has a “silver” dial with applied Arabic numerals and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

According to some sources, another Rolex owned by Warhol was a rare Submariner, a model famous for its association with James Bond and underwater adventures but, of this timepiece there is no record at present. Although Warhol was not a diver, nor particularly adventurous, in the physical sense, the Submariner was an icon of industrial design and represented a symbol of virility and style that appealed to him.

Andy Warhol’s friendship with Yves Piaget and love for his watches.

In addition to Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Warhol also owned watches from other luxury brands, such as Piaget. Known for its subtle designs and use of precious materials such as gold and diamonds, the fashion house was particularly appreciated by Warhol for its refined and bold style.

Warhol owned several Piaget watches, some of which were decorated with precious stones, reflecting his love of all things sparkling and opulent.

Particularly worthy of attention were two “jewel-watches”; the first, a secret timepiece hidden in a 24-karat gold ingot, moved by the famous Beta21 quartz caliber, and the last, consisting of an expertly crafted solid gold bracelet with an onyx dial called “tiger’s eye.”

These types of watches perfectly embody the aesthetic of “ostentatious” yet highly refined luxury that Warhol loved to collect and admire.

A fairly famous anecdote tells of a “particular” request made by Warhol to Piaget, namely that he have the modern art icon deliver all the brochures and sketches of the new line of Piaget watches coming out at that time (1970s), useful to the artist for his inspirations.

One cannot fail to mention Warhol’s unruly nights at Studio 54 with a highly prized Piaget Polo (a watch created in 1979 thanks to Yves Piaget’s passion for the sport) on his wrist, with which he influenced the style of New York’s nocturnal jet-set, which at the time boasted names such as Roger Moore, Ursula Andress, Steve Martin and many others.

Conclusions

In short, Andy Warhol’s watches were more than just objects for measuring time. Each piece in his collection represented a symbol of luxury, history, and immortality, themes central to his life and art. Warhol did not wear these watches as functional accessories, but as expressions of his unique style and complex personality.

Through his collection of watches, Warhol was able to express many of his ideas about art, pop culture, and the concept of celebrity. Like his famous silkscreens, clocks were also tools for him to defy time, making the ephemeral eternal.

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