To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Octa automatic movement, F.P. Journe presents a limited-99-pieces collection -F.P. Journe Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary- featuring a 40 mm platinum case, a rhodium-plated brass movement, and a satin-finished yellow gold dial. Since it was a tribute to the first edition of the watch, all its key elements are the same.

If it’s the first time you hear about independent watchmakers, reading this article will make it clear for you.

Octa’s beginning

The birth of Octa’s movement in 2001 was a turning point both for F.P. Journe since it was his first automatic caliber and for the 21st-century watchmaking because it was the first watch to have a 160-hour power reserve.

In its twenty years of life, the caliber was only changed three times. The last adjustment made the winding mechanism unidirectional instead of bidirectional.

The differences between the new and the first Octa Automatique Caliber

The main difference is the oscillating weight that recharges the spring located in the barrel. In the new Octa, which charges with a bidirectional movement, the spring’s loading occurs in both movements of the direction of the mass. In the first Octa, on the other hand, the loading of the spring happens in one direction of the mass’s movement to guarantee a faster loading of the spring.

This choice was made under the explicit request of some clients. Some collectors complained that the watch (the one with the bidirectional movement) didn’t charge enough when they worked at their desk all day. So F.P. Journe decided to make the charging unidirectional to satisfy the customers that were conducting a sedentary life and to keep content the more active ones.

Changing everything without changing anything

In 2001 the first Octa Automatique movement was in a 38 mm case, with a matte gold dial and two silver quillochè sub-dials slightly shifted to the right to display time, minutes, and seconds. 

On the left, there was also the indication of the power reserve and the “Big Date” with a double window.

The 2021 remake is a clear return to the roots watch because the case is made with the same material as the first model, 950 polished platinum, even if it’s slightly bigger and the 40mm diameter perfectly suits the current trend of wearing big watches. 

The real reference to tradition is brought to us by the caliber that moves the new Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary, the F.P Journe 1300.3 – for the most nostalgic- reworked through decorations with openwork bridges that allow the view of the gearing. The dial is made by satin-finished yellow gold with a grainy effect that recalls the very first watches made by Journe.

On the right side of the watch, there are two silver quillochè sub-dials, another brand’s distinctive sign, that show hours, minutes, and seconds. Even if the hours and minutes numbers used in the sub-dials are bigger, they still show the brand’s distinctive character.  

On the opposite side of the dial, the power reserve sign was moved downwards to leave more space for the Big Date’s windows, which are slightly bigger to allow better readability. The date is shown by two rotating disks with an instant snap movement that can be regulated by extracting the charging crown up to the second snap.

Octa Automatique new caliber’s features

By looking at the back of the watch you will see, thanks to the see-through case back, that Octa’s brand-new movement is no more made of solid gold bridges and plates, but it’s built of brass subsequently rhodium plated. 

Lastly, we want to focus on the off-center oscillating weight on the 5N 22 carats guillochè finished unidirectional charged caliber.  

The balance wheel has a free flat spiral with four inertial adjustment masses to correct the oscillation frequency. The correction happens because, since it doesn’t have the racket, to make it work it must act on the inertia of the rocker by moving the adjustment screws.

The finishing on the back is that characteristic of FP Journe signed pieces: platina di base rifinita a perlage, Côte de Genève circolari sui ponti, incisioni dorate, teste delle viti lucidate e smussate con rifinitura anglage, componenti in acciao lucidati a mano e smussati ad anglage.

The future of the Octa Automatique for FP Journe 

The brand announced that from 2022 the Automatique will enter the current collection with a 40 or 42 platinum or 6N 18 carats gold case and a gold and silver quillochè dial. 

At the beginning of his career, Journe created unique timepieces sold in small quantities. In 2001 he debuted the Octa collection that featured a complete caliber that didn’t need any improvements according to what he said in the official launch. “The Octa is a complete movement that does not need any improvement, thanks to its almost unreal performance”. 

Unreal performances were mostly provided by the never-ending power reserve, a real gem for all the Master Watchmakers. 

Conclusioni

The innovations brought by François-Paul Journe were always made with authenticity, accuracy, rarity, and great respect for watchmakers’ traditions. With the Octa collection, he created a line of watches that respected Manufacturing, and which reflects the vision of the 18th-century master watchmakers of which François-Paul Journe feels heir.

The exclusive 99 pieces of the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary are available in the 10 F.P. Journe Boutiques and Espaces around the world.

Autore: Lorenzo Manenti