One of the most fascinating novelties of the last edition of Watches and Wonders was the presentation of the new Golden Ellipse in rose gold, reference 5738, by Patek Philippe. The most striking detail of this watch is undoubtedly the bracelet, which echoes the art of the master craftsmen of the second half of the twentieth century, whose masterpieces not only added to the charm of the watches on which they were mounted, but often also increased their market value.
In this article we will explore the finest handcrafted creations of bracelets, made by companies and jewelers for Patek Philippe who, reinventing themselves, moved from the production of chains for pocket watches to more complex bracelets, adapting them to wristwatches, which since the 1920s were gaining an increasing share of the market. Only the most skilled were able to stand out in a rapidly growing industry, becoming suppliers to the best brands of the time.
We will also discuss the prices of these works of art, discovering how it is possible to purchase uniquely valuable pieces at relatively low prices, especially when compared to the few modern references with innovatively designed bracelets.
The Gay Fréres Bracelets for Patek Philippe
The first name that comes to watch enthusiasts’ minds when talking about handcrafted bracelet manufacturers in the 20th century is surely Gay Frères. Founded in 1835 in Geneva by Jean-Pierre Gay and Gaspard Tissot, the company soon distinguished itself in the production of chains for pocket watches and jewelry bracelets for women. In the early 1900s, production focused on gold and platinum, but with the growing interest in steel, they seized the opportunity to specialize, becoming a benchmark for bracelets made from this “less noble” material.
In the 1930s they became the main suppliers of Rolex, later attracting the attention of Patek Philippe and other prestigious brands such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The creations of those years consecrated Gay Frères in the Olympus of watchmaking, thanks to its extendable steel bracelets, up to the most refined precious metal bracelets.
Focusing on Patek, some of the most iconic watches passed at auction mounted precisely a Gay Frères bracelet; one example is the
One watch that particularly impressed me with a bracelet made by the Geneva-based brand is a stunning example of Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Round Keys” in rose gold, itself very rare, with a bracelet reminiscent of Rolex’s Oyster, sold at auction by Phillips in Hong Kong for 420,000 euros.
It is important to note, as with the watch just described, that not all examples sold at auction originally left Patek Philippe with a bracelet; it was often a specific customer request. In the 1970s, Gay Frères was still family-owned, with more than 500 employees and the largest factory in the industry in Switzerland. In 1998, the company was purchased by Rolex.
Atelier Réunis bracelets for Patek Philippe
Another prominent company in the watch bracelet industry was Atelier Réunis; a company so important that in 1975 it was acquired by Patek Philippe. Among their best-known creations were the steel bracelets, especially for the Nautilus line, while those in precious metal, for the same Patek model, were mainly made by Gay Frères. Designed by the celebrated Gérald Genta, the Nautilus bracelets were notoriously complex to produce. The acquisition of Atelier Réunis represented a strategic investment for Patek to ensure high-quality production. Patek Philippe purchased new machinery to process the integrated bracelets with precision, greatly improving the production process.
The building that housed Atelier Réunis is now the famous Patek Philippe Museum, the place where Thierry Stern, the brand’s current president, took his first steps in the world of watchmaking. He worked closely with master craftsmen, specializing in the creation of gold bracelets intended for high jewelry watches, especially for ladies. This environment rich in tradition and innovation helped shape Stern’s vision for the brand’s future.
Ponti Gennari bracelets for Patek Philippe
Another incredible maker of bracelets for Patek Philippe was Ponti Gennari, whose history is closely linked to Atelier Réunis. The two companies shared the same building until 1969, when Ponti Gennari was purchased by Piaget. Today, that building has become, as mentioned, the famous Patek Philippe Museum.
Ponti Gennari has made many noteworthy creations, but in this article I would like to focus on two references in particular: the 2526 and the 2523.
Reference 2526 is perhaps the most iconic and coveted among collectors, known for its bracelet nicknamed “lobster tail.” This nickname comes from the bracelet’s incredibly intricate design, particularly the central links that create an extraordinary three-dimensional effect, giving the watch a sense of depth and sophistication.
Regarding reference 2523, I would like to focus on a unique piece that is already very rare in itself because of its minute repeater complication. This model becomes even more fascinating thanks to a wonderful platinum bracelet that makes it a truly exceptional piece. The watch is currently owned by a well-known collector, known on Instagram as @horology_ancienne, who helps to spread appreciation for these horological rarities.
Other companies that have created bracelets for Patek Philippe
The three names we have just mentioned are certainly the most prominent, both in terms of the quantity of their achievements and the originality of their designs. However, they are not the only companies that have collaborated closely with Patek Philippe over the years.
Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, for example, was another prominent name in the bracelet industry during the 20th century. The brand, recognizable by the “JPE” stamp on watch clasps, specialized in fine mesh bracelets, which were often seamlessly integrated into the design of the watches themselves. This feature, combined with the exceptional quality of workmanship, made Jean-Pierre Ecoffey a benchmark for luxury watches.
Another notable bracelet manufacturer is Louis Cournu, identifiable by the trademark “UNROC,” which is nothing more than the name spelled backwards. Their main focus was the production of clasps and extendable bracelets, a specialization that gave their bracelets a unique versatility. Although less well known than big names such as Gay Frères, Louis Cournu’s bracelets stood out for their sturdiness and practicality, as well as quality craftsmanship.
These manufacturers, while not achieving the fame of the greatest, have left a significant mark on watchmaking history, contributing to the success of some of Patek Philippe’s finest models.
Conclusion
Patek Philippe’s heritage undoubtedly plays a key role in the brand’s future choices, both in terms of complications and references and in terms of design, with case shapes or, as in this case, uniquely designed bracelets.
Although today, with in-house production, the artistry of craftsmen who specialize in bracelet making has been lost to some extent, I am convinced that we will see more and more brands with a rich history returning to designs from the past, especially for dress watch bracelets.
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