Dear friends of IWS, as you know, we are passionate about the stories of longevity and tradition that set apart some of Italy’s most important watchmaking companies. That’s precisely why today we’re taking you back in time to 1860 to tell you the story of Astrua a name that has left its mark not only on the world of watches but also on Italian history. Welcome to the world of Astrua, a journey through history, elegance, and a passion for watchmaking and luxury jewelry.
The Origins: 1860, the Birth of an Icon
The history of Astrua began in the Kingdom of Sardinia, one year before Turin became the capital of Italy. Against that historical backdrop, Vincenzo Astrua opened an artisan workshop on Via Barbaroux, a place where master craftsmanship brought pocket watches, table clocks, and grand hall clocks to life. Back then, it was the individual watchmaker’s savoir-faire that made all the difference, as they masterfully assembled each component and signed the dial with their own name a symbol of quality and prestige.
To give you an even better idea, in those years Italy was not yet unified, Garibaldi was in the midst of the Expedition of the Thousand, Giosuè Carducci was taking up a professorship in Bologna, and Lenoir was inventing the first internal combustion engine. Just think of all the history and all the ups and downs that Astrua has experienced over the course of its 164-year history.
The Evolution of the Brand: From Vincenzo Astrua to Valter Franco Ricci
Since its founding in 1860, Astrua’s history has continued, marked by tradition, excellence, and passion. Meanwhile in 1972, 112 years after Astrua was founded, the “Ricci” watchmaking workshop opened in Alessandria, founded by Valter Franco Ricci, a young watchmaker who was already highly regarded for his craftsmanship. The passionate young man spent about 17 years learning and perfecting his craft.
The year 1989 marked a significant milestone for Ricci, who inherited from his mentor, Emanuele Foa, his store, his knowledge of diamonds, and a vision: to create jewellery and a world of allure united by an unmistakable style. The foundations were laid for what would become Astrua, as we know it today: a place dedicated to the pursuit and creation of Beauty in all its forms, beginning with Time.
In 1993, the histories of Astrua and Ricci merged. Two names, two stories that intertwine in a metaphorical passing of the torch among watchmakers, bringing not only watches but also jewelry, handcrafted leather goods, and design pieces to the boutique.
New Horizons: The Expansion of Astrua
The 1990s and 2000s saw Astrua grow and reinvent itself. In 1994, Alessandria welcomed the ASTRUA Valter Franco Ricci Boutique, a concept store where the pursuit of beauty knows no bounds. This was followed by openings in Genoa and Turin unique spaces, yet all united by Astrua’s pursuit of excellence and unmistakable style: incredibly well-curated boutiques that honor tradition while simultaneously looking toward the future, thanks to the use of cutting-edge technology. The automated system that uses futuristic tubes to deliver watches from the warehouse directly into the customer’s hands is one example of this success. It’s impossible to meet anyone who has been to Astrua who doesn’t talk about this fascinating system.
In recent years, Astrua has continued to expand and innovate. Its boutiques in Alessandria, Genoa, and Turin have grown, offering spaces dedicated to fine fragrances, leather goods, and international brands. In 2023, Astrua received recognition from ROLEX, which selected the company as its Italian partner for the launch of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches, reaffirming the brand’s uniqueness and excellence.
Beyond Time
Astrua is not just a boutique, but a true hub of research and development, where creativity and craftsmanship come together to create unique jewelry, custom-made leather goods, and refined home accessories. Each product comes with exclusive gift packaging, warranties, and certifications, reflecting the brand’s commitment to excellence and attention to detail.
Astrua Designer Watches
Now, friends of IWS, let’s talk about something you’re sure to love! As a testament to Astrua’s historical significance in the world of watchmaking, there are still a great many watches in existence with dual signatures on the dial. Given their importance and rarity, some of these have even fetched staggering prices at auction between 2015 and today. Let’s take a look at a few examples together!
Patek Philippe Ref. 130 in stainless steel
When discussing Astrua dials, we cannot fail to mention this incredible timepiece produced in 1938. It is most likely a one-of-a-kind Patek Philippe Ref. 530 in stainless steel with a sector dial. When it went up for auction at Christie’s in 2016, this watch shook up the vintage market for several reasons. First of all, there are only three Ref. 530 models in stainless steel with a sector dial. Furthermore, this particular model is the first ever produced and the only one to bear the dual “Astrua Torino” signature. Finally, the watch had been preserved in the same private collection for forty years in exceptional condition. A true gem that sold at auction for 1.2 million Swiss francs.
Patek Philippe Ref. 130
The second Astrua Torino watch we’re featuring is a Patek Philippe Ref. 130 in yellow gold. Here, too, the Astrua Torino signature is placed at the 6 o’clock position on the white dial, a testament to the boutique’s importance to a maison like Patek Philippe. It is believed that only four Ref. 130 watches bearing the Astrua signature exist.
Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016
Astrua isn’t just important to Patek Philippe, and this Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 signed by Astrua is proof of that. This watch, produced in 1969, was auctioned by Phillips in 2016, fetching 18,750 CHF. We immediately notice that the “Astrua Torino” signature has been replaced here by the more streamlined “ASTRUA,” likely because it was more in line with the modern aesthetic of the time.
Conclusions
Astrua embodies a story of passion, innovation, and style—a brand that has spanned generations, preserving its essence while evolving to meet the tastes and needs of its customers. From Vincenzo Astrua to Valter Franco Ricci, the journey continues, marking not only the passage of time but also the history of elegance and luxury in Italy and around the world, with charming, cutting-edge boutiques that offer visitors a unique experience thanks to their exquisitely designed interiors and selection of exceptional items, from new and certified pre-owned watches to fine jewelry.
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