Located in the heart of the Swiss Alps, in Le Locle, there is Zenith, one of the world’s most prestigious watch manufacturers. Founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot with the goal of creating “the perfect watch,” Zenith has always aimed for the ultimate in precision, elegance and reliability.
And just to celebrate the 160th anniversary since its birth and the relentless pursuit of excellence that characterizes its history, the maison is presenting today at Watches and Wonders an extraordinary timepiece destined to remain etched in the memory of all enthusiasts: the G.F.J. This watch is the perfect tribute to the legacy of Georges Favre-Jacot and the icon of chronometry, the legendary Caliber 135. Without getting lost in further ado, let’s go straight to discover the new timepiece that has reached the zenith of perfection.
The design of the new Zenith G.F.J.
The Zenith G.F.J., the maison’s new watch with the iconic star, represents an elegant and refined reinterpretation of the house’s iconic and elegant timepieces that embody the spirit of perfection. The design of the G.F.J. is inspired by the 1950s, but with a contemporary twist that makes it an utterly unique and desirable timepiece with a straight eye to the future, yet without forgetting the past.
The 39 mm diameter round platinum case is extremely thin and features sculptural and refined lines, with a raised bezel and curved lugs. Each surface is finely crafted, alternating brushed and polished finishes that enhance its luminosity. The crown is engraved with the initials G.F.J., a distinctive touch that recalls the name of the house’s founder.
Beneath the sapphire crystal, the deep blue lapis lazuli dial is a true masterpiece. Every detail has been thought out to the smallest detail: the hour markers are white gold and faceted, while the outer ring sports a “brick” guilloché motif that recalls the facade of the Zenith atelier in Le Locle. The small seconds counter, at 6 o’clock, is made of mother-of-pearl and adds a classy dimension to the design. The slender baton hands, also in white gold, are the finishing touch to this refined composition.
The new Zenith G.F.J. comes with three exclusive straps: one in dark blue alligator leather, one in black calfskin, and one in blue “Saffiano” calfskin. Also available upon request is a seven-row platinum bracelet, with the center links embossed with the brick pattern that echoes the dial design.
The caliber of the new Zenith G.F.J.
To celebrate its 160th anniversary, the Maison has decided to reintroduce Caliber 135 in a new version, which consists of a modern reworking that not only respects the original characteristics of the movement, but improves them with cutting-edge technical innovations. The result is the hand-wound Caliber 135-O Legend, which retains the size and architecture of its predecessor while incorporating new solutions, such as a 72-hour power reserve (compared to the original model’s 40 hours) and a gear train with optimized geometry for greater efficiency.
In addition, the movement has been designed for even greater precision, with an adjustment to achieve a tolerance of only +/-2 seconds per day. The balance wheel has been improved with regulating screws and a Breguet balance spring, while the characteristic double arrow of the regulating organ allows particularly fine adjustment.
Caliber 135, designed by Ephrem Jobin at the request of Charles Ziegler, technical director of Zenith, is the epitome of absolute precision. It was created to participate in observatory chronometry tests, including the famous ones in Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington and Besançon, which were the ultimate expression of competition and perfection in watchmaking. From 1949 to 1962, Caliber 135 achieved the highest possible recognition, winning 2,333 precision awards and becoming the most awarded movement of its era. The “O” version, intended exclusively for these competitions, won no fewer than 235 chronometry prizes, including five consecutive victories at theNeuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954.
This caliber, which represented a true technical innovation, has continued to shine in watchmaking history to this day. In 2022, Zenith revived the legendary Caliber 135, collaborating with renowned watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to restore ten vintage timepieces in a limited edition that has been an incredible success among collectors.
Conclusions and availability
In short, as we have seen, Zenith’s commitment to precision has been celebrated numerous times throughout its long and illustrious history, demonstrating its ability to produce watches that are not only beautiful to look at but also incredibly reliable. The Caliber 135 is just one example of how the star-studded house has been pushing the limits of chronometry for more than a century.
The modernization of this caliber, brought back to life in the new Zenith G.F.J. presented today at Watches and Wonders, is not just a tribute to the past, but a declaration of intent for the future. Zenith continues to look to the heavens, with the same ambition that drove Georges Favre-Jacot more than 160 years ago, and that drives it to create watches that are not only accurate, but also able to stand the test of time.
With the G.F.J., we can undoubtedly say that watchmakers have once again achieved the “Zenith of perfection,” offering collectors a timepiece that combines craftsmanship, mechanical precision and unparalleled beauty. The G.F.J. is not just a watch: it is a piece of history that is being renewed, ready to play its part in the watchmaking tradition of the future.
The limited edition, numbered in only 160 pieces, is available exclusively by pre-order, both online and in Zenith’s physical boutiques, as well as at authorized retailers worldwide. With a price tag of EUR 52,900, the G.F.J. is a watch that combines the allure of the Maison’s heritage with the modernity of contemporary technology.
A timepiece that is not just an object, but a statement of artistry, elegance and innovation to be treasured for future generations.
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